LED board

GaryInThailand 2016-06-03 08:21:21 UTC #63

I have mine & like it. But I'm seeing lots of noise/dither on the pots.
Has anyone implemented an anti-dither filter object for pots and such?
Thanks!

bafonso 2016-06-05 03:50:11 UTC #64

Please do.say more... I was planning on getting the kit on the next batch..

GaryInThailand 2016-06-05 04:34:42 UTC #65

I love mine. I didn't mean to sound negative in any way.

'Dithering' of this kind is normal on ADC's reading pots. A software filter tailored to the purpose will take care of it. I was only inquiring if such a filter has already been implemented by someone, before I set about doing it myself. Haven't heard anything, so I'll get onto it. It will be my first Axoloti object, so might take some days. But once I get it working, I'll post and recommend it.

I have past experience on this, but it's decades old and it was in assembly language on z80. But I do know that it works and with this in hand, knobs and sliders become very well behaved.

Axocontrol is great, and a heck of a deal. Buy it!

SirPrimalform 2016-06-05 04:47:51 UTC #66

k-rate lowpass filter?

Inaba 2016-06-05 11:50:50 UTC #67

there's a 'smooth' object for that purpose

thetechnobear 2016-07-05 17:50:43 UTC #68

Built mine today ... first soldering project, and it worked first time, so any don't fear if its your first time, its straightforward.
its a good first project, just do a few test solder joints on a spare strip board to get the hang of soldering.

I found the only tricky bit was soldering the header pins to the axoloti core, where the solder didnt seem to want to flow for me for some reason.

Thanks @Tombola and @Thonk for a fun project... now just need to create some patches

SirPrimalform 2016-07-06 13:40:27 UTC #69

Yes, I had trouble with the headers too. Not sure why it was so difficult. @johannes, what are the solder pads made of on the Axoloti gpio board? They're certainly not pre-tinned.

johannes 2016-07-06 17:28:29 UTC #70

The solder pads do not just look like gold, they are really gold "ENIG" plated! Pre-tinned pads are not flat enough for fine-pitch BGA components.
I think the difficult solder pads are GND and VDD, those connect to large internal copper layers that conduct a lot of heat away from the solder iron tip. They just take a while to heat up, depending on the soldering iron.

marierose 2016-07-11 08:38:49 UTC #71

sorry i don't know if i am offtopic but i am new here
i found the joystick broken in my pack
can i buy another?
where?

thanks a lot and sorry for the eventual offtopic and for my boken english

Olivier 2016-07-11 14:31:06 UTC #72

I actually bought the Axo-Control version because Thonk had Axocore boards in stock while they were out of stock here...

It was a great little project, but I also noticed that the headers were hard to solder. Also, since it modifies the board, it would be great if the instruction would standardize which headers was on the core and which was on the control. To me female on the core makes more sense in terms of alternate expansion.

Great product and service from the people at Thonk and Music Thing Modular.

thetechnobear 2016-07-11 17:07:17 UTC #73

I thought the same, but recently saw a video where @johannes has soldered his pins, such that the male long pins are UNDER the board, so that he could mount the axoloti core directly onto a breadboard. a fantastic idea, and after seeing this, I finally understood, why he has been saying, different people will want different connectors, and its easier to solder, than to desolder.

so despite the slightly difficulty i also had with the headers , I actually do like the flexibility, and might do the same trick, to have an axoloti which can go straight into a breadboard

Thonk 2016-07-14 08:29:52 UTC #74

I have a long delay on the knobs for the Axocontrol kits at the moment... so in the interim I'm also shipping kits with White Davies knobs instead of the rubberised Rogan type. Buy it here

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/music-thing-axocontrol-axoloti-full-diy-kit-davies-knobs/

Regards

Steve
Thonk

Thonk 2016-07-14 08:30:32 UTC #75

hey marierose, if this is a Thonk kit then please email support@thonk.co.uk and we will resolve for you.

Thonk 2016-07-14 08:32:45 UTC #76

I'd recommend using a flux pen on the Axoloti core to ease soldering.

@johannes do you have a standard for whether the male or female header should be soldered to the core board?

Olivier 2016-07-14 19:28:26 UTC #77

Nobody asked me but I soldered the female header to the Axoloti Core, in the spirit of Arduino vs Arduino shields. If I had though about it, I would have swapped the female headers for an extra-long version, which could act as a male header below, so you could put the Core on a breadboard or something for more tinkering.

...but maybe that's what I should get a second Axoloti Core for.

philoop 2016-07-14 19:48:18 UTC #78

brilliant idea for my second axo i have !
But where to source?

marierose 2016-07-15 10:57:53 UTC #79

Woooow! Thanks a lot. I will write asap.

johannes 2016-07-16 20:57:38 UTC #80

While I welcome equal participation of all genders including LGTB, this is not really the right forum to discuss gender issues
In this case I'd suggest to standardize on the female-on-axoloti-core, male on top

Stackable/hermaphroditic headers: check for Samtec part SSQ-130-23-FS for 30 pins, SSQ-140-23-FS for 40 pins.

Thonk 2016-07-17 10:41:41 UTC #81

ok thanks, have updated my build doc to suit!

salocinnomis 2017-09-05 08:57:19 UTC #82

I snagged an Axocontrol PCB from Thonk (one of the last I belive), waiting for its delivery
I'm planning on housing it in an Hammond enclosure and adding audio and midi in/out & phones out on 3.5mm jacks on the back, still have some things to figure out but i found some solutions, if anyone's interested :
– Switches : 6x6mm 12mm height tactile switches from ebay (https://goo.gl/xtx14j), so they won't be recessed from the top.
– USB ports : panel-mounted usb A & B ports from L-com (https://goo.gl/fZPFWk), (though they can only be bought by 10), i prefer USB B to micro-usb so it will be an "upgrade". I'm thinking of soldering them directly to the corresponding PCB points (might be hard for the micro-usb though..), otherwise i'll cut off some cables I already have, but that will add a lot of depht to the enclosure needed.
I can't find an easy solution to bring out the SD card reader, so think I'll leave a microSD card in it, and open the enclosure if I ever need to change it (not using it for now so should be okay).
I'll report back.. if I succed